“The arid climate of the Sahel throws dust and grit into everything; into every pore, every breath and every bite of food. It is the dreaded dust-laden harmattan haze that blows southwest across the desert during the dry season. My hair is so stiff with dirt it breaks.
I bathe outside, next to the toilet, (a simple hole in the ground) using a bucket filled with water our host has hauled from the well and warmed for me over an open fire. I am grateful for her efforts. Steam rises from the water in the morning airit smells of ash and is so clouded with filth, I cannot see the bottom. I‘m careful not to get any in my mouth. I lather with a liquid eucalyptus-scented soap from a specialty shop in San Francisco since it is known to repel mosquitoes, and struggle with the fierce collision of odors amidst images of freshness.